How to Make Your Own Herbes de Provence
>> Tuesday, December 8, 2009

Paris, though every bit as romantic and magnificent as they say, is not exactly a place where you can stroll mindlessly. Sure, you can look anywhere you want, admiring things the City of Light has to offer. But, as anyone who has spent any amount of time on the Parisian streets would tell you: if you don't train yourself to shift your vision downward every few seconds, you could very well become another innocent victim of the so-called canine minefield.
And just what I was thinking dedicating the first paragraph of a food blog post talking about man's best friends' byproducts, I don't quite know.
I consider myself a fairly well-trained Paris pedestrian. Being from a bustling city like Bangkok certainly helps. When you grow up learning how to make way for dashing motorcycles while walking on a sidewalk or look both ways before crossing a one-way street, circumnavigating Paris pavements is easy.
Yet, there's one area, along the short stretch between rue Sainte-Isaure and Jules Joffrin metro station in Paris 18ème, where I always, always, step on one of the mines. The small street, meandering through eateries, shops, produce stalls, rôtisseries, and charcuteries, is my Achilles' heel. The moment I enter the area, I'm instantly distracted by the sight and aroma of all sorts of grilled and smoked meat and I can't help but look around. Then, boom. I step on a mine and limbs get blown up everywhere. It's gruesome. (This has gotten better over the years, but, yeah, there was a time when it was pretty bad.)
One of my favorite rôtisseurs has a shop in that area, and he makes really good lapin rôti or roasted rabbit among other delicious things. Every time I visit his shop, I always leave with at least 5-6 pieces of rôtisserie bunny. The bone-in, skin-on rabbit pieces are smothered in his house-made herbes de provence, an aromatic blend of dried herbs in the style of Provence, that is better than any store-bought herbes de provence blends I have ever used.
These past few years, I had tried out many different formulae and, though some were quite good, none had come close to what my favorite guy puts on his bunnies. Like other spice blends such as curry powder or garam masala, no two blends of herbes de provence are alike. Everybody has their own formula/formulae and they all are referred to as herbes de provence. However, since the blend comprises five main herbs: thyme, rosemary, savory, marjoram, and lavender, I started with these. But still other than the fact that thyme is to be the most dominant flavor, you will not find a consensus on what's considered traditional.
After playing around with different ratios of the aforementioned herbs, it came to my attention that some formulae contain additional herbs such as oregano, tarragon, and fennel. That got me thinking of what could have been missing. Maybe you're different, but for the life of me, I can't tell the difference between oregano and marjoram. I mean, in a side-by-side taste test, I could probably tell the difference. But if you shove a spoonful of one of them into my mouth and force me to tell you if it's oregano or marjoram, I would most likely fail the test. With that in mind, I knew right away, that with marjoram being part of my formula, oregano couldn't have been what I thought was missing.
What about tarragon? I thought about that and decided it couldn't have been tarragon. For reasons I can't figure out, I hate tarragon. I hate it fresh. I hate it dried. I hate it like some people hate cilantro. What this means is that tarragon could not be part of something I find delicious. One more herb got eliminated.
Then in the process of making fennel-green apple confit and realized that there was something that reminded me of the herbes de provence-covered bunnies I had in Paris. Fennel is what had been missing from my previous replicas of my favorite herbes de provence formula. Eureka.
After a few tries, I think I've finally found a formula that I like the best. It may or may not be your favorite version. But if you've never made your own herbes de provence, this formula is a good starting point. Then you can play around with the ratios until you come up with what you like the most. If you own a dehydrator, by all means, use it to dry fresh herbs from your garden. If not, make sure you get your herbs from good sources so that they don't taste like sawdust.This makes an inexpensive, but classy and highly usable hostess gift or holiday present. It's great on all kinds of roasted meat and vegetables.
A jar of herbes de provence from your kitchen sure beats squirrel pants or inflatable fruitcakes.
My Favorite Formula of Herbes de Provence
Printable Version
6 parts dried thyme
5 parts dried rosemary
3 parts dried savory
2 parts dried marjoram
2 parts dried lavender flowers
1 part fennel seeds
Just mix all the herbs together and keep the spice blend in an airtight container in a dark place. The dark purple lavender flowers are so beautiful that I don't want to break them apart. However, I've noticed that unless your spice blend is ground quite finely (not completely pulverized, though), the bigger bits tend to burn and become bitter when you put the blend on meat that is cooked at high temperature. So for presentation, I keep the herbs whole. But just before I use them, I rub the herbes de provence between my palms to break them apart and release the wonderful aroma that we all love. The lavender flowers, especially, smell heavenly when broken apart just before being added to your recipe.





14 comments:
I've always wondered what herbs were in Herbes de provence. Now I know. I think it would be good to back a batch of this in the pantry. Just the blend of flavors alone bring a whole new level to a dish.
This would make a great Christmas giveaway!
I love Herbes de Provence and I love your description of surviving the streets of Paris. I can imagine the glorious scents arising from the various herbs as they are masterfully blended together. I love this sort of mad scientist experimentation.
The bit about the canine excrement always makes me think of that movie Robert Altman movie Pret a Porte, where they have some pretty classic scenes.
And while we're on the subject, have you been to Mariage Freres for tea while in Paris?
OysterCulture - I'll have to check out that movie! Sounds interesting.
Yes, I've been to Mariage Freres. It's awesome. :)
That's a great idea, and a great gift idea too!
This is great in eggs.
That would make a lovely gift! So pretty!
wow, great idea and I agree it makes a nice gift!
The herbs sound lovely, and I had to laugh at the food smells distracting you from watching your step!
A great idea to mix your own herbes de provence and it makes such a wonderful gift!
I have thought many times about making my own, but never got that far.
I always use Herbes de Provence, even when I make pizza (I have to admit, too often). Sprinkled on the dough prior to adding any topping...getting hungry now
This is a so aromatic post!!
I can feel the fragrances through the screen and as you say an excellent gift on these days :)
Cheers!
Gera
This is a great holiday gift. Even the cheapest pack of herbes de provence from Monoprix is still good. It adds nice flavor. This is really beautiful.
Love this post with the beautiful photos. Am thinking of mixing up a few jars of this to give away this Christmas along with mulling spices as well. Thanks for the recipe, sounds great!
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