How to Make Organic Evaporated Milk
>> Tuesday, November 18, 2008

In the past several months, I have been reading up on food additives and government regulations regarding food labeling. While that has been a very educational process, it has also opened my eyes to a lot of things I wish I didn’t know about what goes into consumer packaged goods and the sly ways in which food manufacturers list their ingredients so you wouldn’t know that, for example, “natural flavoring” isn’t all that “natural.” I’ve been trying to keep my concern from reaching the point of paranoia, but it’s getting more and more difficult the more I know. For example, that immaculately white powder I used to put in my coffee is, as it turns out, not as innocent as it looks. Its liquid counterpart is just as bad. First ingredient on the list is corn syrup solids, closely followed by partially hydrogenated soybean oil (trans fat). Then there are Mono- and Diglycerides as stabilizers, Sodium Aluminosilicate as an anti-caking agent (the same substance used to make fertilizer and dishwasher detergent and to remove ink from waste paper), artificial flavor, and sometimes Silicon Dioxide (an anti-caking, anti-foaming agent). And these days, one could only pray that the milk derivatives used to make these powders aren’t shipped directly from the country/countries where Melamine and food merrily mingle.
Black coffee is not an option for me. But none of the other alternatives is good enough. Nonfat milk powder tastes crappy. Regular milk dilutes my coffee and turns it frigid and ugly. Half and half or cream is okay, but I don’t really dig the taste or the fatty film it leaves on my tongue. Soy milk makes my coffee taste funny.
I have recently switched to evaporated milk which I thought tasted great. Sadly, it is still far from being additive-free. Dipotassium Phosphate and partially hydrogenated soybean oil are routinely added to it. To date, I have not found organic, garbage-free evaporated milk. If such a thing exists, it is not readily available where I am.
Then I got to thinking. If Carnation can make evaporated milk, so can I. I mean, how hard would it be to make evaporated milk? All you have to do is, well, evaporate it, right?
The goal is to reduce the milk by 60% in order to produce a very creamy and concentrated result. I decided to experiment with half a gallon of organic milk. Forty percent of a half gallon translates roughly to three cups or 24 fluid ounces. At the beginning, I poured only three cups of milk into the pot which I planned to use. That gave me an idea of how high up from the bottom of the pot three cups of liquid would be. Having mentally made a mark on the side of the pot, I poured in the remaining milk and started the process.

Now a word about the pot: you should use a heavy-bottomed pot – a pot whose bottom is as nonstick as possible – preferably a wide one (the larger the surface area, the shorter the evaporation process). Stir quite frequently with either a wooden spoon (very good) or a heat-resistant rubber spatula (even better). You want to stir frequently and scrape off any sticky bits at the bottom of the pot as you go.
Once the milk comes to a boil, reduce the heat down to very low. At this point, the milk no longer needs to be stirred constantly. Still, you should give it a stir and scrape the pot bottom every 7-8 minutes or so.
The other issue comes from the “skin” which the hot milk forms on top no matter how low the heat is. It’s unavoidable. The skin needs to be fished out and discarded or at least stirred back into the milk from time to time. It won't melt into the milk, but if you don’t do anything to it, the skin will act as a protective layer that keeps the moisture from evaporating through the surface.
At this point, don’t worry about the milk “skin” or the brown bits you’ve scraped off the bottom. Everything will get strained out later on. Your biggest concern at this juncture is to make sure the milk doesn’t burn or boil over. The heat should remain low and the milk steaming not boiling.
As the water content decreases, the volume will start to lessen and the milk will become thicker, creamier, and more concentrated. Once the milk level reaches the 3-cup point which you have previously marked on the side of the pot, it’s done. The finished product is then taken off the heat to be strained.

Once the milk is completely cooled, I put it in glass jars. Evaporated milk keeps in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks.

As the water content decreases, the volume will start to lessen and the milk will become thicker, creamier, and more concentrated. Once the milk level reaches the 3-cup point which you have previously marked on the side of the pot, it’s done. The finished product is then taken off the heat to be strained.

Once the milk is completely cooled, I put it in glass jars. Evaporated milk keeps in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks.




27 comments:
Since you have to add other stuff to coffee to make it palatable, why drink the nasty stuff at all? Just pop a caffeine pill into your milk and you're all set.
Roger
Because coffee is 50% beverage and 50% experience, Roger.
I'm with Leela. It's a ritual that's indulgent and pampering as a solo activity - or communal and bonding when shared with a friend. Simple pleasure can be found in the pouring, stirring and tasting alone!
How long did it take you, heating and stirring, to reduce the 3 cups to 1.5 cups?
At low heat, I'm thinking many hours?
Hi Anon,
Actually, it took me just under two hours. The wider and the more shallow the pot, the shorter the process.
Have you ever tried to sweeten the evaporated milk? My husband and I really like our french vanilla creamer. Or would you just add it to the coffee?
The only problem with heating the milk this much is denaturing of the protein molecules in the milk.
This makes it less "useable" to the body and is treated more like a toxin than food.
It would be ok for just coffe, but in large amounts I don't think it would be healthy.
Kpstone - Thanks for the info. :)
Thanks for the info, Leela! I too was looking for organic evaporated milk, only to reach a dead-end.
I was concerned about kpstone's comment about the degradation of milk proteins, but in looking further, I also found a contrary view, i.e. that milk proteins are quite stable to high heat, even with pasteurization. (http://www.milkfacts.info/Milk%20Composition/protein.htm) ~sri
Anonymous - Thank you so much for the information. Very helpful. :)
This is wonderful information Leela! Thank you for posting this article worthy of bookmarking. My plan is to try it out soon as we have a deposit to the food budget and can purchase some organic milk. Thank you again.
Try making your evaporated milk from organic unhomogenized semi-skimmed milk and you will have made a drink fit for the Gods! Two points:
(1)Homogenizing milk actually does break up the fat molecules and make them less digestable. (2)Using semi-skimmed makes a much lighter drink that is easily absorbed by the body, and it tastes just as rich and sweet; the fat does not stick to your tongue! And it won't create so much mucus!
Thanks, Dave.
Thanks so much for posting this. I am going through the same thing food wise (becoming more educated and trying to make better choices. I also came to the same coffee- creamer dead end. Can't wait to try this!
Thanks for the info. I'm trying to make flan in a foreign country where evaporated milk is not available. I was unsure if all this skin I was removing from the top was "normal" and it sounds like it is.
Thanks so much for this. I grew up in Barbados and we traditionally take our tea with evaporated milk. Problem is, I use organic milk for everything else -- baking, cereal, etc. -- but could not find organic evap. Tried to make it today unsuccessfully, when I decided to search. Your info is very useful and I will try it again tomorrow. All the best.
Thank you! Not a coffee drinker but my favorite quiche recipe calls for evaporated milk and I have not been able to find an organic variety!
Brilliant, thanks so much for this tip. I made some today, and it turned out fabulous. If you have a large nonstick, electric skillet, they make the job go much faster, and easier. I found that you can actually keep the heat up quite a bit higher and reduce your total time considerably. It just requires that you babysit a lot more. Much more stirring and skimming.
Also, as far as sweetened/condensed milk goes, it's a totally different product. Check out this simple recipe for a homemade version:
http://almostbourdain.blogspot.com/2011/01/homemade-condensed-milk.html
However, I see no reason why you couldn't sweeten your evaporated milk to taste if that's what you desire. There are no rules in the kitchen (well except the laws of physics I suppose).
Mike - Thank you so much!
Very interesting information. I am one of the lucky since we have our own milk goats. Cream - no problem - we just let our milk sit in the fridge for a day and have all we need. However I am keeping your idea on file in case I ever do want to make evaporated milk from the goats milk. And as a cheese maker I can say heating milk at a high temp does not hurt it. Our pasteurizer heats the milk to 165 degrees and holds it there for a bit of time.
Again thanks Leela for the great idea.
Thank you for the info. My grandmother is lactose intolerant, I have been looking for lactose free evaporated milk and will use your directions to make it myself.
candace - This is not lactose-free.
Thanks for putting up this article. I'm developing a new recipe for squash pie and had no evap milk so I just did a batch in a double boiler and had no problems with burning but the skin still needed tending to regularly. Took about 2-1/2 hours but well worth it. It turned out beautifully! I also did the same process with coconut milk and it also works very well.
Anon - Thanks for the coconut milk tip. I never knew it could be done.
I wonder if this could be done successfully in a siow cooker?
Thanks for the instructions! I was about to make butterscotch fudge and had no means of getting hold of canned evaporated milk.
The process went surprisingly well, too well in fact!. It took me 20 minutes to reduce 3 cups to 2/3. Perhaps it had something to do with the pot. I used a 9' cast iron pot and was able to keep the milk at a rolling boil the whole time. Some stuck to the bottom, despite all the stirring, but none of the brown bits came loose.
Tip: A metal ruler is very handy when you have to to reduce liquids to a certain point. You just put it in the pot and leave it there for the duration.
Cheers, Anna
Anna - Thanks. This is very helpful.
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